Paddling NB

Description

(part 1 of 2)

Note: Weather conditions can drastically vary the speed and difficulty of your trip. Please plan accordingly.

Neguac is a small Acadian town on the north shore of Miramichi Bay. It is also the closest place to access the 25 kilometres of barrier islands that protect Miramichi Bay. I have plans to someday kayak across Miramichi Bay along these islands, but this days goal was much less ambitious. My plan was to get out to Neguac Dune and see how far along the dune I could get. This 10 kilometre long island offers protection for Neguac Bay and its only 200 metres from the mainland near its northern point.

On my way through Neguac I stopped at the Tourist Information Centre. It was early so it was closed. While I was there I went to check out the giant oyster statue beside the Centre. The oyster industry is quite prominent in Neguac Bay and has become part of the towns identity.

I drove to Malpec Road but wasn't sure what I would find. I had scoped it out on Google Maps as a potential way to access the dunes. I drove to the end of the road and was glad to see a wide part in the road where I could park. I got out of the car and checked out the views of the bay. I also noticed how breezy it was. It was going to be a challenging paddle. Other than that it was a beautiful, sunny day so I was willing to give it a try.

I put the kayak in the water and launched. The road ends next to a small, wide stream that looked like an insteresting place to explore. I decided I would check it out on my way back if I had time. I made my way north along the sandy, gravely beach. The wind was hitting me broad side so I was gettin pushed up against the shore and splashed pretty good. I passed by an old cabin that was collapsing in on itself. Just beyond that the shore started to change. The beach turned black and the trees came closer to the bay. A small cliff began to rise along the shore. I went closer to check out the black beach that was made entirely of peat moss. I wasn't sure how deep the peat moss was on the beach but it didn't seem to have a solid bottom so I stayed in the boat. The beach ended and the cliffs climbed to about 10 feet high. It was fascinating to look at the eroding peat cliffs close up. They were full of old sticks that marked the layers that had been laid down over millenia. I could hear the sound of heavy equipment nearby. When I flew my drone I saw that I was close to a peat moss harvesting operation.

After exploring the peat cliffs, I set my sights on the dunes. There were only about 500 metres across the small channel from where I was. When I was half way there I hit shallow water. Too shallow to paddle in. That had been my experience with the sand dunes at Kouchibouguac Natioal Park. The water, and most of the lagoon behind the dunes, is very shallow, especially at low tide. The water was deep enough for my boat without me in it, so I got out an drug my boat through the shallow waters. The wind had picked up now so I had to make sure I kept a good hold on my boat. If I let it go just for a second the wind would have pushed it across the bay. If that happened I wouldn't be able to catch it and I would have to swim back across the bay. Not something I wanted to do.

Description

(part 2 of 2)

There were intermittant sections that were deep enough to paddle in. I walked and paddled my way along the dune. There were small ponds and channels in the dune. One small pond had four great blue heron in it. I paddled to the end of a long, grassy island and then parked the boat on the beach. I wanted to see if I could walk out to the exposed Gulf of St. Lawrence side of the dune. I had to walk a long way across the sand to get to the grassy island. I drug my boat up the sand for a ways. I didn't want to return to see my boat floating across the bay.

To get to the outer dune I had to cross a small channel about 20 metres across. I could see the bottom and it wasn't deep, so I put my camera and tripod over my shoulder and started across. About half way across I took a step and sunk up to my knees in the sand below the water. I did everything I could to stay upright and not drop my camera. I struggled to pull my feet free and had to leave my sandals under the sand. Once I had my sandals off I was able to slip free and climb up out of the quicksand. I was then able to reach down in the sand an grab my sandals and still keep my camera above water. Good thing the water wasn't any deeper. I figure it was the mix of sand and peat that made the conditions. That ended my amibitions to get to the outer dune.

I returned to the grassy island and sat for a while, enjoying the views and the smell of the salt air. I was hoping to get to the cabins that I could see farther out on the dunes. I wanted to see what dune cabins looked like and if anyone was around. So far I had only made it a kilometre down the dunes. Froom what I could figure the cabins were about two more kilometres away. I didn't have the time or the energy left to drag my boat that far. I would have to check them out another day.

I decided to cross the bay and head directly for the car. I was facing a cross wind so had to paddle at an angle. That meant that I was hitting waves at an angle. I soon put my camera equipment away (thank you Remote Designs) so I could enjoy the splashing. I got soaked and had a great time. It was the perfect amount of splashing. Any more and it would have risked swamping the boat. In that case I would have stayed closer to shore and made my way back along the peat cliffs for safety.

I came to shore a short distance from the car. The tide was now out and there was a long gravel bar between me and the car. The wide stream that was next to the road had emptied out and was too low to explore so I drug my boat over the gravel bar and back to the car. I have been underestimated the impact of the tides in this part of the province. They only average about 1 metre compared to 18 metres on the Bay of Fundy. The wide, flat sand dunes mean that even small changes in water levels could mean the difference between paddling and walking. Good thing I love doing both.

Directions

From the tourist information centre near the catholic church in Neguac, drive north towards Tracadie-Sheila. After 6 kilometres turn right onto Malpec Road. Drive on this gravel road for just over 3 kilometres and you will come to the end of the road near the bay. Park along the wide part of the road on the left. There is a trail off the end of the road that goes down to the beach to access the water.

Other Routes nearby

• Miramichi City Routes
• Kouchibouguac National Park Routes

Route Last Paddled: June 22, 2024.

Page Last Updated: January 8, 2025.