Paddling NB

Description

Note: You will need to cross the Kouchibouguacis River channel to get to the Pointe-à-Maxime campsites or to the end of the dunes. The channel is marked with triangles on sticks. Use caution in this area due to shifting currents from the tides, and fishing boat traffic.

After carrying my kayak and all my equipment down to the beach, I launched and turned right. My plan was to stay along the shore on the way there and then come back along the dunes. I passed by a field with the skeleton of a teepee, and a road sign next to the shore on the Mi'gmaq Cedar Trail. I saw Osprey hovering and diving in the lagoon, and Greater Yellowlegs running along the shore.

I continued along the shore and the trees receded. I began to see beautiful mergansers nesting in the tall grass along the shore. Most had bands on their legs. They kept an eye on me as I passed but none seemed too concerned by my presence. I came the end of the marsh and saw a group of four Great Blue Heron in the tall grasses. I then crossed over Kouchibouguacis River to get to Pointe-à-Maxime. I wanted to check out this backcountry campsite for future adventures.

The mosquitos at the campground were horrendous. As I danced and swatted away the mosquitos, I watched a very slow dredge boat makes its way out the river. Another boat buzzed around it as it went. I couldn't figure out what this other boat was doing. Maybe he was just bored by how slow the dredge was moving. Once the dredge passed, I killed a few more mosquitos and then got back in my boat.

I went around a turn and then came to a point. I decided it was a good time to cross over to the dune. I headed for a small island across the channel. There was a significant current in the channel, which indicated to me that the tide was going out. I crossed the channel at a bit of an angle to compensate for the current.

The sound of birds became almost deafening on the other side of the channel. The island I was heading towards was a tern colony. I parked in the shallows offshore. The island is a restricted area. Even if it wasn't I wouldn't want to find out what they would do to an intruder. I watched as a large seagull tried to walk onto the island and he was endlessly dive-bombed by the terns. After a few minutes the terns ignored me and continued to dive in the water all around me to catch fish. It was amazing to watch. Some of them dove very close but behind me, which was a bit unnerving. They are such a fascinating little bird and very successful fishers.

I continued along the islands and saw lots of herons and cormorants in the distance. I sat and watched of few of the herons fishing in the shallows. I saw a young bald eagle sitting on a bright yellow lobster trap. I made my way into a shallow area that was too shallow for the boat. I had to get out and drag the boat towards the channel to find deeper water. As I walked I lifted my feet and water got sucked into my sandals with every step. In one of these steps something bit me. I had inadvertently sucked a small hermit crab into my sandal. After that I kept my feet low and my eyes peeled for other small crabs in the eel grass.

Once I got out to deeper water I continued to paddle out to the end of the dune. I wanted to see if I could see the seal colony that hangs out at the end of the dune. I saw a seal in the distance, which was a good sign, but when I floated by I realized it was injured. When I got close I could see cuts on its back from a propeller. I met a family in a small boat just after that and they said they had called the park about the injured seal.

When I came around the end of the dune the waves got big, fast. A rogue wave hit me broad side and splashed into my cockpit. It soaked my camera in salt water. I was glad that my good camera and big lens was on a tripod and was missed by the splash. The waves were too big for my kayak so I got out and dragged the boat along the shore. I just wanted to go around the first turn to see if I could see the seals. On google maps it showed a channel that went in behind the islands. If I could get to it I could take it back.

I looked up and saw a couple of black heads bobbing in the waves. A couple of seals were watching me. A good sign that I was getting close. I continued on and saw several more heads bobbing in the waves. I came around the crest of a dune and in the distance I could now see the colony. I sat down and got my camera set up to take a closer look, all the while being watched by the bobbing heads. the seals in the colony looked like they were enjoying diving into the big waves.

After watching the colony for a while I decided it was time to get back. The channel on google maps didn't exist. These dunes shift and change a lot in winter storms. The tide was also out so maybe it was there at high tide. I made my way across the end of the dune where it looked like it was under water at high tide. I didn't want to wander into any restricted area or disturb any nesting birds. When I got back to the channel I saw a fishing boat parked on the dune with people walking on the dune and fishing. I kept my distance so I didn't interfere with their fishing.

I made my way back the inside of the islands. It was shallow along the inside of the dune. Just deep enough for the kayak but not deep enough for my paddle to get a good stroke. It was exhausting. Once I got past the islands I headed out away from the dunes in search of deeper waters. Eventually I could see the people on Callanders Beach so headed straight for them. It was a beautiful day and there were quite a few families on the beach as I put the kayak on the car.

Directions

For directions to the park go to the Kouchibouguac Park page.

You will need a park pass to visit the park. You can get a park pass from either the gate near Route 11, or the information centre on the first road just past the gate. To get to the lagoon continue on the road past the information centre. Drive for 9 kilometres and turn right towards Callanders Beach. Part of this road is gravel. After 800 metres the road comes out into a field. Continue straight until the road turns sharply to the left and follows along the beach. Park here. You will see several paths down to the beach. You will to portage about 50 metres down to the water, depending on the tides.

Gallery

Other Routes in the Park

• Kouchibouguac Lagoon

Hiking Trails in the Park

• Trails

Trail Last Hiked: August 25, 2023.

Page Last Updated: November 26, 2023.