Paddling NB

Description

We were on a moose hunt. I figured if we paddled deep into the wilderness of the park, towards a place called Moose Bogen, we would increase our chances of seeing a moose drastically. I was right.

We got in the water and paddled under the steel bridge. We stayed to the left to explore the far shore of the lake. After we turned a bit we could look across at the Bathurst Cabins on Camp Lake. We passed by large cedars that looked very well trimmed. It's deers' favorite food in the winter and it looks like they cleaned off all the branches up to as high as they could reach. They looked like Christmas Trees.

We continued along the shore. A turkey vulture flew overhead and Vicki got swarmed with Damselflies. I think they were attracted to the turguoise color of her boat, which is similar to their color. We came around another corner and could see that there was a long beaver dam across the channel between Camp Lake and Teneriffe Lake. Vicki thought we would turn around but I had other plans. I convinced her that it would be easy to climb over the dam and continue on the other side. After some debate we did just that.

After making our way through the shallows below the dam, and getting beached at the point where the stream flows into Lake Teneriffe, we continued along the shore to the left. On our way we saw several ducks. I was taking video of the ducks when I heard Vicki call out ahead. She sounded very excited about something. When I paddled closer I could see she was pointing at something in the water. I could see what she was looking at but couldn't figure out what it was. Then a young moose popped her head up out of the water. What we had seen moving was her ears flicking to keep the flies off.

It was very shallow in this part of the lake. Any shallower and we wouldn't have been able to paddle the kayaks. We couldn't figure out if the moose was standing in deeper water or laying in the mud on the bottom. We watched her for quite a while. She would put her head under the water and come back up with a mouthful of aquatic plants. A thick swarm of flies were there to greet her each time. After a while she decided that it was time to go check out another lake.

We decided it was a good time to turn and go back. The mountains rose up around us in every direction. It was quite hazy but we could still make out the fire tower on top of Mount Carleton. We made our way back along the far side of the lake, keeping the shore on our left. This side of the lake was a swampy wetland. In front of the wetland there were thick patches of yellow lilies. Their lily pads were shiny and looked almost waxy. I thought it might be a different species than I am used to seeing.

When we got back to the narrow stream between the lakes, we went as far as we could in the shallow water. We ran aground not far from the dam. As I was about to get out of the boat to pull us further, a large bull moose popped his head out of the water above the dam. It was so close it startled us. He saw us and then ran in circles not knowing which way to go. I am glad he didn't come in our direction. I am not sure we could have backed up very quickly.

After sitting in awe for a few minutes, and making sure the moose was gone, we climbed up over the beaver dam. We followed a loon down camp lake. When we got to Bathurst Camps we got a better look at the cabins. We decided they would be a great option for next year's visit. They had easy access to the back lakes and were next to the start of the Nepisiguit Mi'gmaq Trail.

We continued to the bridge. Before going under the bridge we spooked a young family of mergansers. They made their way along the shore under the bridge. Once they were in Bathurst lake they picked up the pace and scurried across the water. After we got the boats out of the water I sat and watched the loons in Bathurst Lake while Vicki started cooking lupper (what we like to call a mid-afternoon meal between lunch and supper). At this point it was getting a bit breezy and the loons bobbed in the waves.

It was an epic wilderness paddle. We got our moose and a second one as a bonus. As we ate supper we planned our return to see what we can find beyond Teneriffe Lake.

Directions

For directions to the park go to the Mount Carleton Park page.

The roads in Mount Carleton Park are all gravel. From the gatehouse drive for just over one kilometre and turn left towards Armstrong Brook Campground. Drive for 15 kilometres and you will come to a steel bridge between two lakes (Bathurst Lake and Camp Lake). Just before the bridge there is a parking lot on the right. Park here and access the water near the bridge.

Other Routes in the Park

• Nictau Camps to Portage Trail
• Nictau Camps to Park Lodge
• Bathurst Lake
• Camp Lake to Moose Bogen

Route last paddled: July 18, 2023.

Page last updated: November 26, 2023.